Travelogue: Kayaking Japan
An undertaking involving danger, risks, and uncertainty of outcome said the dictionary when asked about Adventure.
Our adventure, however, didn’t start with that in mind, but rather, as so many adventures do, with three friends, beer in hand, staring at a table cluttered with curry and guidebooks. Where to go was the question? South Africa, Norway and Costa Rica the possible answers. Kayaking in South Africa was rainfall dependant so too unpredictable?, we had kayaked in Norway two years earlier and none of the airlines would fly our boats to Costa Rica. It was as I pondered this that the suggestion escaped from Ian, his mouth full of curry, and sat hovering over the table. Japan.
That suggestion highlighted three truths for us. One, our destination was set. Two, our excitement exceeded any of our previous adventures. Three, we did not have enough information. In the months that followed we met regularly, pouring over magazine articles, guide books and maps. Determination and enthusiasm can fill many a gap and we quickly plugged the holes as our plan came together. Virgin Atlantic would fly us and our equipment to Japans Narita airport with 32kgs of sporting equipment carried at no extra cost. Kayaks, paddles, personal protective equipment, camera/video equipment, tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment and the odd item of clothing. We packed what we could into our boats, but it did little to disguise the fact that the 170kgs of equipment pilled on the curb outside Heathrow’s Terminal Three looked more suited to an army prepping for an invasion than three friends setting off on an adventure. It took our most winning smiles and considerable determination to negotiate the chaos at Heathrow and was with great excitement that we boarded our flight.
We stepped off the plane into another world. It was tranquil, a vision of order and efficiency and of course it was hot hot hot. You will believe our surprise when we walked into baggage reclaim to see all our boats and equipment in a neat pile by the door. Airport staff insisted on helping us wherever possible. Short people I had been prepared for but the extent of the service culture came as a shock. It would be several days later before we really came to grips with just how magical the Japanese cultural experience was.
A painless car hire straight out of Narita airport coupled with some improvised roof bars had us on the road. We had a rough idea where we wanted to camp for the night and a whole day to cover the 200km gap. Driving any sort of distance in Japan takes three or four times longer than it would in Europe. The roads are narrow and heavily trafficked, speed limits are very conservative and once you get into the mountains it’s a bit like driving up a marble run. Eight hours later we found a campsite near where we wanted to be. We wrestled with the language barrier and managed to convey our needs. Three people, three tents, one car, no; we only want to buy one rubbish bag to dispose of our litter. Even in the dark Japan feels like a civilized jungle, a mass of concrete and people, amidst the raw energy of nature.
The Tonegawa would provide our first taste of Japanese rivers. Ian ran the shuttle while James and I forged a path to the water with all our kit. As we took to the water dwarfed by towering jungles reaching to the heavens we buzzed like never before. Here we were, kayaking in Japan, the dream of so many months before become reality. The river provided a perfect warm up, mainly grade three with a couple of excellent grade four rapids to keep the blood pressure up. A boulder the size of a house, a tight line to the right guarded by a big hole, James stuck in hole with only his head showing above the raging water, the look of determination on his face as he fought his way out. Perched on a rock, watching through the lens of my camera I shared his triumph. It would be us against the rivers of Japan and we had come to win. It was so good in fact that we got off, re ran the shuttle and did it again.
Driving up the day before, we had stopped at Canyons, an Adventure Company in the heart of Minikami. We sought beer and local knowledge. They provided both. We returned that night with thanks, war stories and a thirst for more. Yet again we were met with overwhelming hospitality, locals keen to practice their English and committed to seeing that we had the best possible time whilst visiting their country. Canyons deliver a vast array of excellent adventures in truly inspiring locations, from the scenic laugh to the wild and truly extreme. Their specialty is gorge walking and their offering magnificent. We followed a bus load of excited punters to their local gorge. Fox Canyon, a short but incredibly sweet section of gorge, with the infamous Inari Falls, a 55ft waterfall named after the Japanese Fox God, the highlight. We stood on a bridge watching the screaming clients as they were lowered down this fall to swim delightedly out the pool at the bottom and then follow the guides down the subsequent shoots and slides before disappearing out of sight. James, turning to Ian and I, with a sentence full of expletives, described just how pleased he was. This is why we were here. Big drops and tight, technical gorges. He was made up. We returned to our campsite to find a party underway. Music, fireworks and dancing with the vast night sky as a backdrop. This did little to distract us as we crawled into our tents, all three to share the same dream. With the morning would come a stunning sunrise and 55ft of cascading water down a shear rock face.
We hucked Inari Falls and treated ourselves to several runs down Fox Canyon, enjoying banter with the gorge walkers, guides and spectators alike. It was here that we bumped into Ryan, an Aussie raft guide on his yearly pilgrimage to Japan for the rainy season. Ryan provided us with maps and a list of rivers he recommended we check out. We scouted several rivers, paddling many a sweet section. Yet to say it was all smooth sailing would be a lie. We inspected at least three rivers for every one we paddled, with much of our exploring leaving us exhausted but without that perfect river we sought. Before leaving to explore another prefecture we were rewarded, however, with my favourite river of the trip. A Japanese national monument named Fukiware, roughly translated the falls that split and blow. Two big drops before disappearing into a sheer sided gorge. The first was relatively straight forward; about seven metres high, with each of us deciding to run a separate line down its horseshoe shape. We styled out lines, regrouping in the pool, to the applause of the throng of tourists come to see the magnificent falls.
The second drop was considerably harder, all three of us getting smashed by the water and needing to dig deep, fighting to escape the retentive maelstrom at its base. It was with a sense of great accomplishment that we paddled the remainder of the gorge and even the sight of policemen waiting by our car as we got off could not dampen our spirits. It turns out that being in the water is forbidden and the police were rather put out with us. We were relieved when winning smiles and our most apologetic faces saw the police put away their fine books and just give us a warning. I maintain that we got off because the Japanese found James’s strong Scottish accent fascinating.
We made another camp above the town limits on the site of an abandoned ski facility left over from the Nagano Winter Olympics. It was here as we cooked ourselves some tuna delights on our gas stove that we revisited the locals warning. One always gets warned by the locals about their particular breed of wild life. One never listens. That is the way of life. I remember two thoughts flying through my head as the bear and cub walked past our camp. I hope they have eaten followed shortly by where is my camera. James did not sleep well again the whole holiday.
It was not to be the perfect fairytale trip however. As we approached the Kyotsu, we had no idea how we were about to be tested. We knew this could be our toughest river, graded between two and six, the water level looking high and a warning that once we entered the gorge we could not get out. Not put off we started our routine, James and I sorted the kit at the put on while Ian drove the car to the bottom and then walked back. Six hours later when Ian finally returned after surviving the 
grueling slog though inhospitable jungle we faced some tough decisions. We only had food for lunch, which was already several hours past, we did not have time to paddle the river before it got dark, we had only our paddling kit and nowhere to stay. We decided to wait out the night and put on at first light the following day. What we hoped was an abandoned warehouse, full of the kind of stuff you find at a car boot sale, provided us shelter for the night. A life saver as the nights got cold and we only had wet clothes with us. I led the team out at first light, a touch before 04:00 and we descended into the gorge. I felt progressively more ill as the walls closed in around us and was suffering from dizziness by the time we reached the first, horrific looking, grade five. I calculated my chances of surviving the rapid in my current state as very low. I was stuck. I cannot go back, cannot go further, and cannot climb out. We had no choice, Ian and James would have to leave me behind, alone in the gorge, and try to paddle out. As I watched them disappear my eyes turned to the fifty foot walls on either side of me, capped by inaccessible jungle. I prayed they would make it out, I prayed they would be able to find me again and I prayed they could get me out if they did. Those hours, with naught but my thoughts, were the longest of my life. I gave up blowing my whistle as every unanswered blast battered at my hope. As the gorge walls warmed, cracked rocks would tumble down to smash around me. It is a strange thing to contemplate not surviving an adventure.
We spent our last couple of days in Toyko with Tatsu, a local we had met in Minikami who kindly offered to guide us around. We soaked up the culture, the night life and the food. We savored the hot bath, comfy beds and air-conditioning in our hostel. We took time to reflect.
Touring Japan with our funny accents and colourful little boats, throwing ourselves down stuff the average person would consider crazy, I can see why the locals found us a curiosity. Yet I feel there was more to the way we were received. From bowing at road works to the unprecedented service at fuel stations, helpful passers by to immaculate roadside amenities or Tatsu’s offer to guide us round Toyko, the Japanese people are a people of profound respect in all that they do. We came to Japan for the awesome white water but it is the country itself that made the bigger impact. We took several days out from our Kayaking to immerse ourselves in this culture. We visited Matsumoto Castle, shrines and museums, sushi bars and onsen baths, watched car salesmen polish their cars, workers tend the paddy fields and the risen sun illuminate it all. Japan is a place to go for adventure, its outdoor playground one of the best in the world, but it is also a place to go to learn, to take stock and to share experiences.
An awesome paddling venue, inspiring country and a remarkable people, a place to visit for any adventurer and our thanks to those people who made our adventure possible. Our respective ladies for being so supportive as well as Big Dog Kayaks and Stirling Canoes for their sponsorship and continued support. But the biggest thanks to my friends. James said as we got off the last river he cannot think of two people he would rather share an adventure with. I would like to echo those thoughts. Thanks to James and Ian, for an awesome adventure, for good laughs and for rescuing me from the Kyotsu gorge.
Fact File
Getting there, getting about, getting back
We flew from London Heathrow to Tokyo’s Narita airport. While other operators do fly this route I recommend Virgin Atlantic as they will fly 23kg of sporting equipment at no extra cost. Public transport is incredibly efficient and will get you most places in a timely and painless fashion. However if you are planning to camp, travel a little off the beaten track or carry large amounts of equipment I would recommend hiring a car. The Japanese love their people carriers which is great as they are well suited for this kind of trip. Car hire is available straight out of Narita airport. When booking a car make sure you get one with a SatNav, it was possibly the most useful piece of equipment on our trip. While there we visited Nagano, Matsumoto, Minakami, Yamanashi, Mount Fuji, Kamakura and Tokyo.
When to Go
If you are looking to catch the rain, then late May – mid July is ideal. We traveled just after the season had finished, arriving late July and there was still enough water for us. It is predominantly warm that time of year. Traveling a little earlier in the season would allow you to catch the Cherry Blossoms in April.
Costs
Look to pay around ₤750 return for flights. Car hire cost us ₤1,500 for two weeks. Camping charges accumulate as you end up paying for all sorts of things, aim to upwards of 1,500yen pppn (₤11.50). We wild camped wherever possible. While we didn’t have any trouble with the locals I would still recommend being discreet if you are going to wild camp. Our rooms in Toyko International Youth Hostel 3,860yen pppn (₤30) and a coke from the many roadside vending machines 150yen (₤1.10). Fuel costs around 130yen per litre (₤1), expect fuel consumption to be high because of the aircon (unless you deal with the heat better than we did). Watch out for toll roads, they can be very expensive. If you have a lot of sport equipment and fancy visiting Toyko before you leave I recommend using Narita airport luggage store for 300yen (₤2.20) – 800yen (₤6) per bag per day, its definitely worth it as kayaks on the Toyko underground would be interesting. Make sure you take out appropriate insurance for the activities you are undertaking.
Operators and Contacts
Canyons based in Minakami offer a wide range of adventurous activities throughout the year. www.canyons.jp For more information about Kayaking in Japan contact Lincoln Taylor at Canyons, Cody Howard www.huckinhuge.com or us at www.planetpaddler.com all of whom would be happy to help with info.
Who can go?
Anyone looking for adventure, culture and an awesome experience. Japan for us was the next adventure and we picked challenging rivers to suit our ability. There are, however, a huge variety of rivers available spanning all the grades and different kayaking styles. Big and bouncy, slow moving scenic paddles, lakes and reservoirs and of course lots more waterfalls. Whether joining an organised trip by a local provider or going self supported with friends there will be the perfect river to suit your grade if you are prepared to explore a little. If Kayaking is not your thing then Japan may still be your destination, walking, biking, climbing, gorge scrambles, skiing etc…its worth the trip.
Equipment
Equipment is provided when kayaking with one of the Japanese providers. If you plan to be self supported make sure you take spares (especially paddles) wherever possible because getting replacements while in Japan will be time consuming and costly at best.
Who is writing?
Giles Chater lives and works in Scotland. He kayaked for the first time while at an activity centre and has not been able to shake the bug since. That bug along with his passion for adventure drives him to continually seek out new rivers and new places to kayak. While not playing he manages activity provision at an outdoor centre delivering adventures to young people.
