Raasay and Rona
Sea Kayaking around Raasay and Rona, two islands off Skye west coast Scotland.
Start Sconser Pier NG 52480 32259.
Camp 1 Raasay NG 6098 5321, 27.71 km.
Camp 2 Raasay NG 58327 48135, 54.19 km.
Finish Sconser Pier NG 52480 32259, 74.83 km.
Day 1 Sconser Pier to Camp site 1. 27.71 km
Thanks to Chris for the screen shots.
Day 2 Camp site 1 to camp site 2 – 26.48 km (54.19 km).
Day 3 Camp site 2 to Sconser 20.64km (74.83 km total)
For me, the Raasay and Rona (R&R) sea kayaking trip was planned for 2023. However, due to poor weather the 2023 R&R trip was substituted for more sheltered waters in and around Loch Leven. Video of that trip here.
Fast forward to 2024, the trip was back on the calendar. Mark Beard, Chris Clark, Kieran Doherty and I (James Fleming) all signed up for it. The plan was to meet at Friday 10th May 2024 on the Isle of Skye, West Scotland at the Sligachan camp site, 19:30hrs.
As the weeks came closer to the intended date, Mark cascaded the all-important itinerary with routes, tide times and tidal stream details. The weather was looking good. Force 3-4 for Saturday easing Sunday and Monday. At least that’s what was forecasted!
With kit checked and packed there was one small change to my food. Normally I would take fresh food and cook it up over day one and two. However, this trip I took packet food that you either added to a pan of water or added water to the packet.
Friday came, the car was loaded and I left and started the drive via the A9. Stopping of at Perth Marks and Spenser’s on the way for a hot chocolate and lunch it was a welcome break and distraction from the drive. Continuing north up the A9, my thoughts moved to the weekend. I was keenly apprehensive as this was my first multi day camp at sea. Was my personal preparedness on point, did I have the right kit, have I forgotten anything, could I cope, what was plan B and…well, lets just say these thoughts were all mulled over and I knew it would be all right. I was ready.
I eventually caught up with Chris, travelling with Kieran and we pulled over at the co-op car park at Broadford, Isle of Skye. A few minutes later Mark pulled it. The quartet was complete.
We all headed to the campsite at Sligachan with Mark doing a wee check for parking at Sconser Pier. The camp site appeared busy. Lots of tents, campervans and vans settling in for the night. Across from the camp site was the Sligachan Hotel, where we headed for drinks and dinner. Fish and Chips, with a side portion of chips was the order for me. Having had our dinner, mulled over maps, discussed the next few days we all headed to our tents for a good nights sleep ahead of our R&R trip. The plan was to be on the water for 09:00hrs to catch, tide, wind and streams all to give us a push north – north, north east (N-NNE) as we rounded the south of Raasay.
I feel there will be a lot of cardinal directions i.e main compass points, so whilst I’ll keep it relatively simple and keep it to the four main points, it won’t be accurate, so if I call it N, but it was more NNE, you’ll get the gist.
Camp was struck. There was ample parking at the ferry terminal. Boats were unloaded, kit packed, pictures taken, there was a real sense of purpose and no faff. Crickey mikey, is that possible, no faff. LOLS.
Day 1
We left Sconser pier about 09:00 hrs fresh and with a spring in our paddle cadence. Dodging the ferry we handrailed i.e. followed the coastline, east towards Rubh’ an Uillt Dharaich. Once there we crossed over to Eyre Point, south Raasay. The crossing was easy with what felt to me force 3 winds. As we continued our route, anticlockwise round Raasay, passing North Fearnes onto Rubha na’ Leac some 11km into the journey we stopped for some refreshments, rest and just takingin the scenery. Pushing off the wind picked up, quite a bit. The southerly wind increased to force 4/5. The stronger tail wind added more speed to our journey north, handrailing the coastline.
Brochel castle, a further 8km was our next resting spot. A chance to refuel, have some hot drinks and take in the splendid countryside. The history of the castle has been blurred through the decades and century’s of time, but local tales suggest it was the MacSweens that had a hand building it around the late 15th to early 16th centaury (www.isleofraasay.com, 2016). The wider settlement of Brochel was made up of some 25 dwellings with byres (Miket, R et al. 1991). We took a walk around the castle, took in the scenery the sights and I couldn’t help but wonder of the people that built such a castle. The ruined architecture was impressive enough, the actual building must have been pretty impressive.
We pushed off again. However, none of us were prepared for what was to come next! Leaving Brochel and paddling north the winds had eased slightly. Scanning the coastline looking at rock formations, wildlife and being at one, Mark, sharply said, dolphins. Dolphins, 12 o’clock i.e. straight in front of us. I looked up and couldn’t see anything, at first. Then, some 500m out, there were numerous breaches on the water surface. With the wind still forming some white tops and some breaking there was a clear distinction between this and marine wildlife breaching the surface. There was a pod of dolphins spanning some 100 metres across. There were pairs synchronised breaching, there were ones fully breaching the surface, others started to play in front of our sea kayaks but the highlight for me was where one dolphin swam under Kieran’s kayak towards mine, rotating and showing its white belly, the speed and agility of these animals in the wild was staggering. As soon as we came across them, they passed under us and were gone. What an experience! As we paddled north we reminisced on what we had just seen.
The first camp site was on the top northeast part of Raasay, at grid NG 6098 5321. With the various paddling assists we arrived at the camp site mid-afternoon. Camp routine was pitching tents, food and recounting the tails of that day. Only to be further spoiled by watching other porpoises play in the distance off the island of Eilean an Fhraoich. Day one we encountered, sea eagles, deer, various breeds of birds, many seals, dolphins and porpoises playing in the water. We went to bed, and I for one was ecstatic with the days events. What would tomorrow bring? I dozed off to sleep, warm, dry and content.
Day 2
The day started with the normal camp routine. Food, striking camp, packing and heading off. Today we would cross from Raasay to Rhona and continue the anti clockwise route round Rona. As we pushed off visibility was great, the wind had eased a lot to Force 2 and the southerly assist, small as it was, was still helping.
The first stop was about 10km in at the north end of Rona. I had to pinch myself at this stage. I was so pleased, to get this far and was having a fantastic time. The wildlife along the coast was abundant, no dolphins though. As we refreshed ourselves the journey for us was now southerly, skirting the west coast of Rona. There was an opportunity to camp on Rona, but with the fair weather, assists and good time we were making we pushed on, back to Raasay on the west coast for camp number 2. This would help shorten the distance to the finish on the third day. There was a sense of achievement leaving Rona, crossing back to Raasay, seeing in the distance where our first camp site was. Our course was now south taking the outer line round Eilean Fladday towards Ard an Torrain point. Passing the point we spotted what was likely to be campsite 2, at grid NG 58327 48135, west of the parking at Rubha Crion.
The tide was going out and where we landed was on slippery rocks, with more rocks and then a grassy patch. This grassy patch was where we would be carrying our boats to, well above the high water mark. It was quite an effort to unload the boats, carry the gear up, repeat and then carry each boat up one at a time, with a four person lift. During the first transportation of kit, the rain cam on. I always prioritise putting up my tent first and lucky for me the rain came on during the erection of the tent. I manged to stow almost all my gear away before it got really wet. Then, matter got worse, a lot worse, for me! The rain cleared, the wind dropped and it happened. The midge came out. They weren’t out in fully summer force but enough to let you know this was the start. Midge nets on and insect repellent helped but for about 60 minutes of so, whilst we were eating the midge came out. The weather was changing too. The skys were darkening and the rain came back on. We all scurried away to our tents. That was it for the night. Rain, heavy rain was on for a good long time. Thunder. It was a rough few hours, but it was fun. Dry in my tent I was settling in for a AMSR nights sleep of rain on the tent and claps of thunder.
Day 3
The weather forecast for day three was accurate enough. Fog/mist. Force 1/2 winds. Visibility was down to about 100m at best.
We struck camp. The plan was to handrail the coastline and once we got to the west coast of Raasay at Eilean Aird nan Gobhar we would follow the bearing of 220 degrees across the Narrows of Raasay to mainland Skye.
It took a fair wee while to carry our gear from the campsite, to the launch point, carry the boats down, then pack floating boats. It was fun.
Once floating visibility was probably about 40-50 metres. Leaving the bay, the coast line was on our left, handrailing real close until the fog/mist cleared, opening up to magnificent sights of Skye, the hills, Raasay and sea. It was a great experience. We stopped off for refreshments, looked in and out of caves and took an easy cadence to the finish, back a Sconser Pier.
Raasay and Rona: A Weekend Paddle Adventure
This blog post recounts a successful three-day sea kayaking trip around the islands of Raasay and Rona, off the west coast of Scotland, with James Fleming, along with fellow paddlers Mark Beard, Chris Clark, and Kieran Doherty.
Highlights:
The trip offered breath-taking views of the islands, the mainland Skye coastline, and the surrounding sea.
The group kayaked alongside dolphins, porpoises, seals, and sea eagles, creating unforgettable memories.
Successfully completing a multi-day sea kayak trip in sometimes challenging conditions brought a sense of achievement.
The shared experience strengthened the bonds between the paddlers.
Thanks to the team. I would like to expresses his gratitude to Mark Beard, Chris Clark, and Kieran Doherty for their company and support throughout the trip.
Fortune Favours the Brave!
