Norway 2008

Short video clip

Full fat video clip

The eagerly waited Norwegian trip had come (short video clip here).  Weeks and months of planning and organisation James, Ian, Giles, Dave, Chris, Pete and Dave all met at the ferry port at Newcastle, bound for Norway.  21st – 31st July 2008.

Kayaking is an assumed risk sport.  Kayaking class IV – V in Norway is even more risky, compared to Scotland, for example.  The remoteness of the rivers, the power of the water, sheer cliff faces in deep set gorges and massive hydraulics all play a part in making Norway, arguably, the best creeking in Europe, if not the world, IMO.

 

This report is my version of events and how I saw and experienced the trip, no one else’s.  The report will visit the highs, lows and some epics on the trip. 

Day one; Sjoa Asengjuvet.

We paddled the section on the Sjoa called Asengjuvet; class III – IV, 14km with an average time of 3-5 hours, according to the guide book.
At the get in I dare say there were a lot of folks uneasy and nervous about our first paddle in Norway.  We had shuttled the cars and had a team chat on kit, swimming, hand signals and pretty much anything that was on folks mind.
After a first few paddle strokes my nerves were gone and I was having a great time on my first Norwegian river in a creek boat.  The water was cold, the sun was out and there were smiles aplenty.  The Asengjuvet is a sweet section for a warm up; massive waves and some meaty holes.  We were at the bottom before we knew it.  Our first swim of ten was on this section, everyone in the group would swim at some point, except one. 

Afternoon; Sjoa: Amot.

Having had a spot of lunch we decided to kick up the grade and looked towards the Amot section; class IV - V-, 2 Km with an average time of 1 – 2 hours, according to the guide book.
This section would turn out to see our first epic with heroic assistance to get one of our fellow paddlers out the water before dropping into a cauldron of misery!

We initially started off at the camp site, where we were staying, having scouted most of the river from the camp site, namely the slalom section.  It’s always very different checking the river out from the bank compared to when you’re in it.  The slalom section looked a piece of cake, but had some sweet waves and holes waiting for the switched off paddler.

NTS; when inspecting the river from a bridge and you’re checking the lines upstream and downstream, always, always look under the bridge for the grippy hole!

Having finished the slalom section we headed off down river. When we got to the road bridge a nice hole was waiting for us.  I went river right and quickly signalled to the rest of the group to go right.  Giles, however, was having some ‘Giles’ time, bimbling down the river doing his own thing and missed the signal to go right.

Well, the hole had something to say about that.  Giles got gobbled up, swam and started to get re-circulated in the hole.  A proper violation, he would say...

Folks went to his aid and collected his kit.  However, he was swimming too far in the nice green water and was coming up to the cauldron of misery.   That part that is graded V-.  I was further down river, at this stage.  Someone shouted, “…get a rope out!”. 

Realising the seriousness of the situation, I grabbed an eddy, got out the boat and got my throw line ready.  Standing in thigh deep water I had all but 10 seconds to eddy out, get out my boat and bag Giles.

I threw the rope and missed him; I was about 2 meters short.  “Swim Giles, Swim towards the rope, I shouted!”  Giles swam and it was evident he was exhausted from his violation! 

He grabbed the rope, above a very visible, cauldron of misery, and rolled on his back.  The strain on the rope was incredible.  I wasn’t in a good position but was desperately trying to hang on.  Giles was almost on the very last thread of the rope and my very precariously position was placing me in danger of being pulled in and having two casualties in the water.

For the first time in my paddling career I vividly recall thinking I need to let go of the rope, I was being dragged in.  Before my mind took the next step in the process Kris, grabbed me from behind and took hold of my buoyancy straps. 

Giles was slowly being pendulum into the eddy. 

With Kris helping, all thoughts of letting go of the rope were banished.  With Giles back on dry land his paddle and boat were off, to the sea…
We regrouped and inspected the rapid, where Giles had his feet dangling over the lip.  What a beefy rapid! 

We would buddy run the rapid with myself probing they way.  What a smashing rapid. 
Further down we came to another inspection.  A smaller rapid but still good fun. 
The rest of the trip we went paddle and boat hunting for Giles…We were successful and after some time we secured his kit.
 

Day two;Store Ula: Waterfall run.

In the morning we had planned to go off and have a look at the Ula slides and waterfalls.  There wasn’t enough water for the slide to go, properly.  The falls were on and at class V, about 500m in length we took about 3 hours hucking these drops.

Ula 1, 2 and 3 water falls were all good to go. 

Ula 1 was the biggest with a boof or pencil option.  I decided to boof my run.  Others pencilled in.

Ula 2 was, in my opinion, the more difficult and not so clean line.  There was an angular drop on it with a few lines to go.

Ula 3 was an express ride to boil city; once over a horizon line my stroke sequence was a trailing right stroke, sweeping away from the wall and riding the shoot, tucking up and leaning forward for the pool. 

Ula 4, was somewhat another story, no way, but it has been kayaked.  A horizon line that would frighten your mother!

One by one we hucked the drops…and all had our fill of endorphins and chemical cocktails surging round our bodies. 

Lagen: Rosten

In the afternoon we went and had a look at the Rosten, class IV (V, VI/X), 4km, with an average time of 2-3 hours, according to the guide book.

Well, well, well… this was to test out metal, in more ways than one.  We set off on the Rosten on a high level, according to locals.  Our run down to the cataract was so good.  Really good grade IV.
The cataract, initially, looked as if it would go.  However, once we had a look at it there was a shoot leading into a cross grain funnel feeding a MONSTER hole!  The hole had a heaving tow back and was looking very difficult.  After this was a grade V drop!  After a few looks we all portaged.  Once in we paddled the tail of the final rapid.  At the bottom and with all the team floating we made our way down the river. 

Another horizon line another inspection. 

Most of the group, five in total, got out river left to look.  Ian and I went river right to look.
I got out my boat walked down some rocks and looked at the line.  A beefy angular 1-1.5 meter drop into a frothy boil with closed ends and a tow back to be worried about.  This was the line to nail.  There were other options on the rapid but I thought this was to be the cleanest line; however, there were severe consequences if we got it wrong.  These consequences were going to be realised. 
I walked back to Ian, still sitting in the eddy.  I relayed the information to Ian in a manor that made him aware that this was no walk in the park and a critical stroke sequence would reap success, fannying about would be disaster!  Retrospect fully, Giles, mentioned watching and listening, from the other bank he was very attuned to the verbal language and body language I was gesticulating to Ian that the drop was not going to be easy.  I guess that’s what comes from kayaking in a tight group. 
I got back in my boat, said to Ian follow me after 5-6 strokes.  I splashed my face with cold water and broke in.  A few power strokes, boof and a huge catch on the other side of the boil I pulled myself through the drop.  Ian followed and we both cleaned it!  How difficult can it be?  Time would tell…

The others were still on the river left looking at various lines.  Giles, Kris and Dave all came down the centre of the rapid and made it look good and sweet.  Personally, I didn’t fancy it, but hey ho, it rocked for them. 

Dave and Pete were to choose their line and execute it…

The rest of the group were down stream waiting for Dave and Pete.  If they came centre and cocked it up they would flush out and no real harm done.  Going river right, the way Ian and I took, and getting it wrong would have severe consequences!

Dave and Pete got in their boats and ferried across to kayak river right!

They didn’t get out to look at the line. 

Pete was leading with Dave about 5-6 strokes behind, following.

They didn’t make it!

Pete, didn’t make the critical stroke sequence and dropped in the hole sideways.  Dave would land on top of him and not clear the hole.

They were both in the hole swimming with boats and paddles clear and present hazards as the re-circulation process and power started to grip and work the boys in the hole.
Pete smashed his teeth (I could have said chipped; but that doesn’t have the same effect!).  The force of the water ripped the webbing system off Petes helmet and took his helmet off him.  It would be fair to say, without exaggeration; the boys were getting a life threatening working in the hole.

We were frustrated and could not get to them to help or assist. 

All we could do was to wait and let them get worked and await their self rescue. 

I was watching them for a considerable length of time, gravely concerned and helpless to do anything!  I was convinced we were about to pull two bodies off the water; they were being re-circulated for so long.
Another first in my paddling career I actually passed on a Cardio Pulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) sign to Giles for him to get ready.  I didn’t excpect either to be conscious when they were released.  Both Giles and I are trained qualified first aid instructors, so I knew he would get the gist of the signal. 
Giles, acted immediately and went to the eddy jumped out his boat to get ready.  Kris was in close proximity to Giles and ready to help.  Ian, Dave and I were ready to get the guys in to the eddy. 
As their kit was being ejected from the hole and flowing past us we were still watching them getting worked.  I really thought the worst!

...Ian, started frantically paddling with Pete and had him on the bow of this boat and took him to the eddy.  Giles bagged him, throw line, and we got him out.  He was bloodied, helmet less and was in clear shock.  He was alive and all effort was switched to Dave.  I saw Dave under the water struggling and paddled as quickly as I could to him.  “Dave!  Grab the back of my boat and don’t let go! (In a staunch Scottish accent)”, I shouted.
Dave got to the eddy and managed to get out.  With Pete and Dave safe the others went to get their kit. 
In my opinion Dave and Pete got one of the worst workings I have ever seen! However, they managed to get out and were safe on the bank.  They were both in shock and needed some time to calm down. 
Some time had passed and we managed to marry the boys up with there kit continue on the trip.
Well, not really.  At this stage we were focused in getting the boys off the river and to hospital to get checked out, but we had to paddle more of the river to escape the sheer cliffs.  About 10 minutes later we stopped and got the boys off the river and sent three to kayak the rest of the river to get the cars. 

In cases like this it’s all too easy to point the finger and blame and chat about what should have happened and all that stuff.  Very easy!  What I will say about that incident is everyone will have learned and gained more experience from what went on. 
We all worked well as a team to effect a safe rescue for Dave and Pete, as best we could. 

Dave later went to the hospital, just to get checked out, he was okay.

Back at camp we had one or two beers chatting about our epic day…

 

Day Three

Day three would see us making a clear effort in dropping a grade and trying to get everyone back in a good place, in their head and soul, as best we could.  We ran the Sjoa Play run twice….
Play run?  What a stretch of water, some massive waves, long wave trains and one or two good holes to play in.  For me the Sjoa play run was one of my most memorable trips. 

Day Four:

We would strike camp from Sjoa and head down to Voss, taking in a wee cheeky paddle on the way there.  Soja kayak camp site was great.  We enjoyed some great swims in the large eddy, at the top of the slalom site.  There were toilets about 2-3 minutes from our tents, running taps about 1 minute from our tents.  A fairly quiet and relaxed atmosphere surrounding the tent at nights.

Smeddalselvi:  Road run

Moving from Sjoa to Voss we decided to paddle the Smeddalselvi, class V, about 6 km taking 2 – 4 hours according to the guide book.
Everyone apart form Dave got on this wee gem.  I guess Dave was still reflecting from the Lagen: Rosten. 
This road run was akin to a Scottish ditch.  No wider than 25 meters, quite technical in parts and a few wicked drops. 
To this end we split the group up into two teams of three.  Giles, Ian and Pete would head off whilst Dave and I did the shuttle (to the grade VI!) and we would kayak down with Kris.
We eventually caught up with them and that would continue for the rest of the day. 
The first noticeable drop would see some kayak it and some portage it.
The second drop was sweet as a nut.  A difficult run in leading to a ledge where a good boof or carrying your speed would secure gold.  Similarly, some portaged and some kayaked it. 
The road was relatively close to the river most of the way.  We came to a sever undercut where close inspection identified a clear route down. 
Past that was the last significant rapid.  A flare to drop, some holes, drops and cross grain moves were for starters with another diagonal run through some meaty holes, eddying at the bottom to finish with medals to finish.  Ian and I were to kayak the whole stretch with others portaging parts.
We paddled down to the get out, above a grade VI and called it quits for day four.

Jubilation and warm hearted discussion were had comparing lines and routs down difficult rapids and tales of good camera footage and pictures creamed off another successful day.

We packed our gear and headed off to Voss.  On the way we looked at Money drop, again.  Ironically we all wanted to have a portion of Money Drop, a sort of one hit wonder (or so we thought) as a park and huck, but there was not enough water going over it.  Next year maybe. 

Arriving in Voss we asked for direction to the Skydiving area, which would be our final camp site. 
We arrived and pitched our tents in the shadow of the trees next to the airfield.  The Sky diving dudes would provide us with some great entertainment over the next few days. 

 

Day Five:Jordalselvi;

Our first day in Voss and we thought the Jordalselvi would be good.  Class III – V, about 6 km and taking about 3 – 5 hours, according to the guide book.
This rocky little ditch type river was akin to the Smeddalselvi:  Road run.  Set way deep in the Norwegian outback it took a wee while to get there and cutting through some proper 4x4 tracks. 
Some great rocky runs and a five meter drop we were all buzzing down to the 30 meter drop.  Some of the guys did this, well they jumped off the rocky plateau into he plunge pool at the bottom. 

 

Day six Myrkdalselvi: Lower

Day six and we would be paddling some of the most difficult and demanding water I certainly have ever paddled.  The  Myrkdalselvi; class V – VI (X) about 3 km long and an estimated time of 3 – 6 hours to paddle, according to the guidebook.

However, this man-sized river was all about man-sized inspection, man-sized portaging, man-sized walk outs, man-sized rapids and man-sized leadership.  We were about to get some real Norwegian white water. 

We started off at the get in, looking down at what seamed to be a pretty in noxious piece of water (picture left).  A simple down stream-v followed by a rooster tail a small drop to boof off and job done.  All but Dave were to get on the water.  Ian and I were to run it first.
At the bottom of the drop my heart was in my mouth!  Holy moly it was a drop and a half.  It was the story of the trip.  What appears to be an easy section of water from the road is more kick ass when you’re in, and this was no exception! 
Kris (pictured) and Giles were to follow.  Dave and Pete were to follow them.  After another swim we were all sitting in the eddy and Dave and Pete decided not to continue.

Myself, Ian, Giles and Kris were to go on into the guts of this man river…as we meandered down there was a section called Triple Combo and a 30 metre waterfall to float our boat…
Anticipating the worst at every corner we inspected everything!
Coming round a bend we jumped out and came to our first inspection, after the get in.
A cheeky little flare following a run on the river right - middle and eddy out at the bottom then the Triple Combo!
To give an idea of time, Triple Combo is about 500m down from the get in, with Triple Combo being about 100 meters long dropping about 50 meters in total distance.  A mother of a class V.  It took us about 4 hours to kayak 650 meters!
Whilst we were inspecting Triple Combo another group had leapfrogged us and we managed to see the lines down the Triple Combo.  Whilst the other group were about seven in strength they were all seasoned paddlers that had experienced the river before.  Once we had seen some of them paddling the first two slides we got our act together and headed back to our kayaks.
Ian, Giles and myself ran the cheeky little flare whilst Kris doing safety.  Ian was kinda back looped onto a brace with a sweet recovery and Giles nailed the line coming from the eddy river right.  I came down trying to replicate what Giles had done.  Once we were all back in our kayaks we headed off to Triple Combo.  Kris led the way.  It was by no way easy with the mind games already starting to wreak havoc.  At the last gasp eddy, river left, above Triple Comb we all eddied out.  I would run it first, set safety up at the bottom and film the other guys coming down.  There was no safety for me.  I was and would be on my own till either safely in the eddy at the bottom or till I self rescued.  I had to rely on a wealth of experience, determination and my utter belief in my ability to nail the fist slide or I was really going in for a round with Mike Tyson!

Kris, gave me the thumbs up from river right, you’re good to go.

I splashed some water on my face and gripped my paddle shaft that little bit tighter and broke in! I caught the tongue of water and accelerated so fast, ensuring my nose was pointing down the slide I was waiting for the drop to try and put in a last power stroke and wait for the inevitable drilling into the hole!  The impact into the hole was reasonable but I was off balance and had to brace / support on my left.  The 4 / 5 meter tow back was starting to grip me.  With no one to do anything for me I concentrated that little bit harder and powered on my left and was safely in the eddy, river left.  Elated and fully charged with powerful endorphins I was high and loving it!!! 

I got out my boat, throw line and camera in hand and filmed Ian, Giles and Kris down. 

They all came down one at a time whooping and cheering in the river left eddy.  Kris was to succumb to the mighty beast and would be bagged from the hole.  Losing his blades we managed to get his boat.  The first of the Triple Combo was completed.

With one done and two to go Kris and Giles were to do safety for myself and Ian then go on to portage the last two drops.

I was inspecting the second and almost instantly my mind went to another place.  I was so focused on my line and what the stroke sequence would be all peripheral distractions were muted!  Giles was at the bottom of the second and I said to the guys at the top if I should mess up the second and couldn’t make the eddy at the bottom I would continue the run and paddle the third without stopping. 
At the eddy above the second I again splashed my face with water and was so affixed of what was coming all I could see in my minds eye was the line and knew what I had to do.

I stroked up to the start of the second hit the diagonal wave and put in a left sweep stroke to miss the hole and keep me high and to the right, but either held it too long or powered too much into it and started to turn 180o going down the slide backwards.  I was aware of what was going wrong and rather than fight it, I encouraged the turn and put in another stroke to get the back of my boat pointing down the slide as I knew the ramifications of hitting the hole, sideways, at the bottom would be severe!  I ran the rest of the slide and managed to come out of the hole okay.  However, I had cocked up the line couldn’t make the break out and was committed to run the third drop on my own with no safety.  I was okay with that as I had planned and knew it might be a possibility. 

The third and last of the Triple Combo was probably the longest with a line starting left moving centre and continuing the diagonal cut I tried to finish the line by going right.  Everything went well, or as well as I could have hoped!  As I drilled the last hole and was safe in the eddy the rush of endorphins were overwhelming.  It was a rush that I haven’t felt for some time.  I shouted and whooped threw my fists in the air and was well satisfied!

Ian was next.

Ian would style the second slide and nail the eddy!  On the third slide he was to do the 180o on the way down, but he also managed and held his composure.

In the eddy at the bottom we gave each other high fives and handshakes.

The accomplishment and feeling whilst in the eddy with Ian was indescribable.

Day Seven Raundalselvi: Urdland run (Playsection)

After the man run, yesterday, we decided to tone things down for going home.  We jumped on the play run at class III – IV (V), about 7 km and taking 3 hours, according to the guide book.

After finding the get in and get out we got on and paddled down to the very evident horizon line.  We got out and had a look.  Gulp!  A not so nice drop into a cauldron of boil didn’t have ‘come and run me boys’ written all over it.  The drop looked okay, but the landing on to an elevated boil with a substantial tow back didn’t look like fun.  Moreover there was zero chance of rescue, IMO. 
We portaged and kayaked the rest of the river.
I have to say this was my least favourite river of the trip.  Been there, done it wont go back. 

Day Eight

For me, by this time I was knackered.  My joints were sore and my strength was lacking.  I was ready for a short ish trip and good to chill out for my last day. 

We got in at the campsite, a few Km upstream from Money drop.  A nice rocky paddle down the gorge section and a portage round money drop was to start with.  We had looked at the gorge section and though easy peasy.  It was, relatively, till the last dog left bend.  A bit of an unsuspecting beefy drop and the section was complete. 
A portage round Money drop and we came to another portage. 

The last few hundred meters of our kayaking in Norway had one small drop to finish a memorable session in Norway. 
Summary…

I guess I was really apprehensive about hearing the horror stories on huge drops, horizon lines and death at every corner.   That did not materialise.  However, having read guide books, asked information on rivers, used our teams’ wealth of experience and applying some common sense our Norwegian trip was awesome!  I certainly went to try and up my paddling ability, experience and push a grade in difficulty.  For me personally the Myrkdalselvi: Lower, filled the bill for that.  However, we had an awesome time on the Sjoa play run and the Ula drops were truly amazing! 

I guess the seven of us will all have special and favourite memories of the days we spent in Norway.
Outside of the kayaking I particularly enjoyed the swimming at Voss, the friendly banter and the warm showers in Voss. 

Things I wouldn’t do again?  Nothing really.  I think the trip was planed and everything went well. 

Logistics / FAQ

We travelled with DFDS.  Had two cabins with three to one and four to another one.  All but two were sick on the ferry going over.  I wouldn’t advise drinking lots of alcohol on a rough crossing, you’ll feel ill!  That said we all took some food on the ferry to avoid steep costs. 

Driving in and around Norway was crippling, for two reasons.  Firstly they have very reduced speed limits and they are pretty much followed and enforced!  Getting from AtoB took almost double the time it might take in the UK.  Also, there road system isn’t that good, IMO.  When we were scouting for the get in and get outs some were positively for 4x4 only!  There was one get out I wouldn’t drive my car down, far too dodgy. 

There was much hype about height of cars getting on the ferry.  We never experienced any problems, but did have the maximum height booked on the ferry.

The camp sites were okay.  We had wee swimming pools at both areas.  Swimming pools in the sense swimming in the cold rivers.  It was all good fun. 

Eating out.  Unless you’re particularly well off don’t do it.  We took all our food and drink over.  We had tins, packets etc for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  We did splash out on hotdogs at some petrol stations.  Seems like every station has one and the staple diet is hotdog!  Occasionally we popped into the super market to treat ourselves with various cold beers, cake and other goodies.

For the time of year, we managed to hit the jackpot, in terms of weather!  Everyday was hot, hot hot!  There were a few days some of the team paddled with just decks and buoyancy aids!  The last night / day was the only day of rain and it was ferocious!  Some tents flooded. 

The mosquitoes are bad, but I didn’t think they were as bad in terms of the Scottish Midge! 

For laptops, cameras and all things electrical you’re strongly advised to get a power inverter for the car.  One of the best bits of kit.  Without it we wouldn’t have much video or electrical power to use our mod cons…
My first creeking trip to Norway and I loved it, the company, the build up and thewhole experience! 

Next summer I am off back to Norway with Giles and Ian.